Complex Closet - Done. Dropped Framed Ceiling-- Done.

Well, it's been a week since we finished up the master bathroom/laundry room closet. We wanted to start there because we felt it would be easier to drop the whole ceiling with the center of the room hinged firmly to the ceiling joists. I think we were right. I just can't imagine trying to lift all of those wood sections without something to hold them in place.... ah, but I'm getting ahead of myself: the closet.

First of all, which wall to square it off of? Well, Hubs made the decision to parallel the South of the closet wall off of the South bathroom wall. So far so good, but then we kinda ran with it and squared all of the other closet sections off of that. Probably not the best of ideas.

As I've said many times, "Closets are the perfect place to hide all of your f**kups." So when squaring off the North side of the closet, next time I'd recommend paralleling that side of the closet wall to the North room wall instead of the South. It's off a fraction, and most likely never noticed, but I'LL know.

Anyway, getting all of the sections to be square, plumb, level, and parallel was an absolute feat.
None of them are any of the above, of course, but the compromises made in the teeniest of degrees and millimeters will no doubt be lost in drywall. It looks just fine.

It took two days. The first day was building all of the sections and dry fitting them, the second day was installation day. The first was physically grueling, the second one made my brain collapse. Luckily, the hubby survived.

An interesting note: We've gotten to the point that we can measure and cut sections of lumber to within 1/32" of any needed fit. This means that we rarely need any shims, but frequently find a sledgehammer of use. After the closet was built, we started int he dropped ceiling framing, and lifting these sections into place and not having to hold them up while they are leveled and nail gunned into place was a life saver.

Here's what we ended up with:
Doesn't look too impressive, does it? I know. Weird how much planning and work goes into something I'm just going to hide the cat letter box in, anyway.

I wish there was a way I could take a picture and show the whole framing, but when the ceilings are 10' high, I'd have to back up too far, and all you'd see is the Sea of Lumber. So here's the bottom sections.

First is from the bathroom side of the closet (Facing North) the second is facing South, from inside the closet/laundry area.


What you can't see in the second picture is the doorway and wall section connecting the closet to the bathroom wall to the East wall of the bathroom, and the doorway into the hallway.
There's a lot of interconnections going on here.

The third picture is the top of the closet with the drop-cut out to fit around the HVAC ductwork on both the north and south sections of the closet, and as you can see, we've already installed the dropped/framed ceiling in the laundry room, which was pretty easy, actually.














Now the dropped/framed ceiling in the laundry room:




Find the lowest level of the duct work. Frankly, I just climbed the ladder and looked around. I took the 4' level with me to make sure it was indeed the lowest section in the area and market that level on the wall.

THIS IS THE HEIGHT AT WHICH YOU TAKE THE MEASUREMENTS.


The all caps yelling is because I know some... ahem, who have thought, "Okay, we'll put it (whatever thing you're trying to build) up *there* (raising your eyes to some area unreachable ether above your head) but I'll take the measurements on the *FLOOR* where I can get straight lines and more accurate measurements."

So, no. Don't do that.

Walls slope. No 10' long 2x4 is going to be perfectly plumb, and certainly not a whole wall of them. It'll be close, but when you're cutting within 1/32", you need to measure exactly where you'll be setting your whatnot lumber extravaganza (or in this case, 'a ceiling"). Get up on the ladder and do it right the first time.

We built the laundry room ceiling in two sections, east and west, then raised them up, squeezed them into place delicately with a sledgehammer, leveled then nailed it in place, using the closet just built as an additional nailing surface.

Welcome to the Sea of Lumber.

Great Property

One of these properties is quite close to ours and I have been through it. I think it's a good house, with a yard and off street parking. In fact, I tried to buy it.

This home is two doors from Seminary Square Historic District. Close to Mainstrasse but far enough away so that noise isn't an issue. I-75 is only 5 blocks away which means again, close but far enough away from the noise. This is not many blocks from the river, and just a stone's throw from shopping, dining, and entertainment. One can walk most places one might need to go.

Don't take any of these prices as gospel either. It's often not a matter of how much, but a matter of "who." Make them an offer that makes sense to you and see what happens.

Covington Properties

	Roger Bell or Rhonda Wood
	859.292.2188

Contact Roger Bell at 859-292-2188

If you are looking to buy and renovate and LIVE IN a great property at a great price in a great, happening neighborhood, check out 226. The city is all about creating owner occupied properties out of sound brick derelicts. And some aren't even derelicts. Many are much smaller projects than ours.

There are some financial incentives available, too. $6000 CARD Grant, Possible city financing help, and of course the $8,000 in federal money for first time home buyers.

These are better than foreclosures and could be fantastic investments. Plus, this is a great, convenient neighborhood.

Rehabbing an Old House Step 3: Estimating

Rehabbing an Old House Step 3: Estimating

This installment follows Step 2: Selecting

http://www.rehabordie.com/2008/02/rehabbing-old-house-step-2-selecting.html

and Rehabbing Manual Step 1

So, you've found a place that you like and that's in decent shape. Time to make an offer, right? Not so fast! You've got more work to do.

You can't make a responsible offer until you know how much money it's going to cost you to make it livable or the way you want it. Also, if you're getting a rehab loan, you're going to have to have good estimates for the bank too, even for things you intend to do yourself.

There's more to it than you'd think. You don't want to under-estimate, either, as you'll end up with a place that you're paying a mortgage on but that hasn't been painted or carpeted or which ends up looking crummy because you had to cheap-out on your finish.

First off, you're going to have some demo expense. If it's a major gut job, don't do this yourself. It's hard, it's nasty, and it's dangerous, and you don't save all that much money. Typically, demolition will run $1.50-$2.50 per sq. ft. You may have to add in dumpster expense ($250-$700) and any materials.

You're also going to have some soft costs like permits, closing costs, and architect (though if you aren't changing things much, you may not need a pro).

You'll need to secure the building from the elements and from miscreants. That means get several roof estimates, as well as estimates for windows and doors. New windows should be ordered a bit later in the process if you want to avoid potential damage, but it's nice to have a warm, safe place. Windows can be expensive, though if you have more time than money, repairing them is not a huge deal. There are many books on this. Doors are easy to find on Craigs list, and don't forget any basement access door that might need to be replaced.

If the electrical system is old knob and tube you're going to want to replace it. It's dangerous. Get several estimates from credible electricians. You can probably do a good bit of wiring yourself but you're going to want to bring in a pro to hook things up to the breaker box and to consult with you. Do your homework and remember that electricity is dangerous.

If the plumbing is iffy (and you'll want to have a plumber check it out if you don't intend to replace it), you can do much of the PVC work yourself, but a good plumber can move mighty quickly. Also, you pay a plumber for what he knows more than what he does.

If the HVAC system is old, you'll probably want to replace this, too. Get a couple estimates. You can find cheap furnaces sometimes, but most of the time, your HVAC guy can get this stuff more cheaply than you can.

Study the foundation from the outside and look for any potential drainage issues. You'll want to address those quickly and some might require a pro so don't forget to estimate for that, if necessary.

What about insulation? You'll probably want to add insulation. Much you can do yourself but not all. Will you be using spray foam? Some you can do yourself, but others require professional help.

If you're going to have the walls opened up, you might want to consider a central vac system. They aren't too expensive, and you can do it yourself, but they still need to be budgeted for.

You'll want to visualize the place as if it were done and list things you'll need to price out. Drywall and all that goes with it (mud, tape, screws, etc.). Trim (doors, windows, baseboards). Window treatments. Primer and Paint (remember, don't skimp on the paint--labor is the expensive part--you don't want to paint any sooner than you have to). Stains. Electrical fixtures.

Will you be sanding the floors or covering them over? Get a bid on sanding, unless you've had experience or have an option to practice somewhere. Don't forget carpet or any laminate flooring too.

Don't forget appliances. You may need new washer and dryer, oven, stove, fridge, range hood, and the like. Maybe you already have these, but if not, you'll need to add this into your estimate.

Cabinetry for bathrooms and kitchen? That can get expensive, but it can also be done reasonably affordably. Don't forget drawer pulls and handles too. Ikea has some great planning tools, if you want a starting place. Just don't forget to get estimates.

You're going to want to spend some time and money on landscaping too, in all likelihood. If it's more than a few pansies, you'll want to include a budget for that too. While you're outside, make sure that you don't need to paint.

You'll need some tools, too. A rehab should NOT be an excuse to go on a buying spree at Home Depot. Some tools you'll need and you should buy them new. Other tools you may not need, or you may not need to use much. Those are tools that you might want to borrow or rent. Other tools you might want to snag off Ebay, Craig's List, and even pawn shops. Don't forget yard sales. You can blow $2000 in a heart beat buying new tools and you don't have to. Plan early, be creative, and accumulate the tools that you'll need. There are books on this, including the one recommended in Step 1, so we won't belabor the issue, but rather offer the things we KNOW you'll want to have.

(Pretty Much) Imperative tool list:

Circular Saw
Cordless Drill
Bits: Spade, Masonry, etc.
3' Level
Framing Square
Pull Saw
Wood Chisels
Wide, 25' Tape Measure
Utility Knives
Work Gloves
Hammer
3' Sledge
Pry Bar(s)
Safety Glasses
Steel Toe Work Boots
N100 or P100 Respirator
Miter Box/Saw

Don't gloss over all the nails and screws and fasteners and glue that you may need. This, too, adds up.

Once you've got your budget, you're going to want to add 10%-15% contingency. Plan on discovering things that you have to do or things that you'll really want to do. Plan on time delays. You may want to have two sets of estimates, one for the bank and one for your own use, especially if you're going to be doing a lot of work yourself or bartering with tradespeople. In any case, once you have your estimates, then it's time to make your final determination and make an offer. Even then, you may want to arrange financing first.

Rehabbing an Old House Manual--Step One

It's time to back up a little bit, to the beginning.

The idea in creating this blog was to provide step by step guidance to those who would follow in our footsteps (as it were). As such, I'm going to back up a bit to step one. Actually, a bit before step one.

Pre-Step One:
The first thing one needs to do in this process is to assess what one is up for and what skills one has. If you don't like repairing things or working with tools and you don't want to learn, don't do this type of project. Not unless you have deep, DEEP pockets and don't care about money.

You should like to learn and like to do projects. You should have some facility with tools and have a desire to gain some new expertise. You should love old homes and the history of them. You should have vision and creativity. You should be willing to do your homework.

Where I started was here:

Renovating Brick Houses: For Yourself or for Investment by T. Newell and Phillip J. Decker

Frankly, this is a bit dated, but the concepts are sound and very hands on. I got a lot out of it. Don't be afraid to do lots of reading to determine what is in store for you if you do this project and how much you're up for.

So, anyway, once you've established that doing a rehab is what you want to do and within the realm of possibility and financial responsibility, then you can move on to Step 1: Finding a Property.

The first part is to decide where to look. We chose the N.Ky Riviera because it wasn't Cincinnati, it was full of wonderful old brick homes, and was much more foot traffic friendly and all in all more like a real city with real neighborhoods. Of course, the N. Ky Riviera is several Cities (Dayton, Bellevue, Newport, Covington, and Ludlow), but you know what I mean. Once you've got a zone, there are some wonderful tools to help you. Indispensable is Google Maps. It really helps to be able to see the land around a property quickly. If you want off street parking, you can usually tell if such is possible with a quick search. Zillow.com is also useful in researching property values and trends, though I wouldn't rely upon those too heavily.

You'll probably want to find a long suffering real estate agent and work through their listings that meet your criteria. Do them and yourself a favor and research the listings that you think are interesting before you call your agent. You'll be looking at a lot of homes and you don't want to waste his or her time. Google helps on that front as does a good real estate web site. We liked Sibcy Cline . Additionally, you'll want to get in touch with the housing department of whatever municipality you decide on. Often they will own several properties that they are eager to sell to motivated rehabbers. Sometimes, they'll have incentives for you as well; Tax abatement or grants or loans. Don't assume that any price for a property is set in stone, either. You'll also want to look up realty auctioneers. This can be a great way to find a real bargain.

And, don't forget just driving around looking for "for sale" signs in neighborhoods that you're interested in.

Do take your time. You're going to be making a pretty sizable investment in time and money and you don't want to rush things. Try to remain emotionally detached from the process. It took us 6 months or more to find a place and then another year to actually buy it. Believe it or not, we were ready to walk right up the the closing, if necessary. Remember, buying a house is very emotional. That can cloud your judgment or allow others to perhaps maneuver you into an inadvisable selection. Keep your cool, do your homework, and do your leg work. This tilts the odds in your favor.


Next, Step 2: Selecting a Property

Prophylaxis

...any medical procedure whose purpose is to prevent, rather than treat or cure, disease.



Today, we visited my old friend Dr. Tony Brown ( www.doctortonybrown.com ) for a little prophylactic treatment.

No, not that that type!

It is generally recommended that if you're going to be working on a rehab that you get a tetanus shot. It's almost assured that there's going to be a rusty nail injury somewhere along the way. If this were to happen on a weekend, then we might be dealing with an ER tetanus shot.

Why worry about that? For the price of a couple bottles of wine, we can update our tetanus protection and deal with most minor injuries in our own time or simply on our own.

This was a tip I got from the Newell Brother's book on rehabbing brick buildings. I'd say it's a pretty good one.

Besides, we don't want to end up like John Roebling, do we?

Rehab As it Should Be

Last night, we took a perusal of "The Brooklyn Townhomes". This is a set of recently renovated town homes, here in Covington. One block from The Ascent at Roebling.

These are sexy and they honor the history of the buildings. They're also BIG. 3,000 square feet. Big foot prints. Rooms that a man can move around in. Wonderful wood. Also a lot less than high-end housing elsewhere.

Check out the listing here:

The Brooklyn Townhomes

If you're looking for low maintenance, high sex-appeal living, walking distance from Cincinnati, and with a $1,000,000 view from the roof, this is IT.



M

Buy This House?

This house is a perfect candidate for a rehab.

It's cheap. It's in a "happenin'" area that has already "turned the corner". It's set up as a two family so you can live in one part while you work on the other. There could be some help from the city, if you qualify.

I suspect that you could finagle an off-street parking easement too.

Plus you'd have some really cool neighbors.

Take a peek.

Listing

Join us in the adventure!

When it rains, it pours.

OK, so it's not really news that the Sub-Prime Lending market is imploding. Yes, we knew that. Hell, we saw it coming a year ago. But COME ON!

We've been talking with a local bank who offered us a decent deal on a rehab loan. There are lots of twists to this loan as we are self employed and well, a bunch of idiosyncrasies. But as of the start of this week, our guy at the bank basically says, "Yes, we've got you a rehab loan." We were happy. Things were working out. We should have KNOWN that was the first sign of the apocalypse.

So after what... 2 days... our rehab banker calls us. "Oh, by the way, we're not doing this rehab loan program anymore. You have 24 hours to complete the loan application to lock it in or we can't help you." --WHAT?!?! OMG,so now we have until the close of business ( I hope) to scurry our little beehinds over to the bank with a check for $xxx to seal the deal.... oh, but wait... we can't do the rehab without the City agreeing in writing to sell us the house and to guarantee the rehab incentive loan from the City. Argh!!!

OK, well that shouldn't be too hard. The City Commissioners voted to sell us the house, we just need it in writing. That's public record, right? And the Rehab Loan Application was sent in on Monday. They already agreed (in principle) to give us a rehab loan... like MONTHS ago. What's the big deal?

The big deal apparently is that the City had an appraiser head over to the house. He estimated the value of the house at $5K over the AGREED to selling price, and apparently the city may not be able to sell us a house for less than the appraised value... even though comparably priced homes are HABITABLE-- and ours is decidedly NOT habitable. And, the application process is more in depth than the bank loan. Looks like trouble. So where does this leave us?

It leaves us with 2 hours to have the City approve the Rehab Loan and get the paperwork to the bank and get the bank to agree to the terms of the City. We have six hours for us to get a check over to the bank, assuming all conditions are met, and IF the City doesn't change their deal to sell us the house at the price we proposed last year.

Hubby is rapidly trying to get the bank and the city to communicate, hopefully to get everything ok'd and approved before the Rehab loan offer goes away. Apparently the bankers are terrified of all these sub-prime loan fiascoes blowing up.

I gotta admit, I understand.

H.